R—, Bottoms Up
R—, Bottoms Up
This next incident involves a dear friend of Surf Europe’s editor-in-chief, and an expensive misadventure that befell him in California a number of years ago. We asked R— to tell the story in his own words:
Broooo.
It was a chunky day at Salt Creek, I was surfing “Middles”, paddling back out and a guy was going left so I duckdived the white water on his inside to avoid him.
The wave was top to bottom, and he didn’t make the drop and just free fell into my the top of my batty. It hurt like fffaaaack and he just paddled off!!
I reached around and put my finger through my wetty into the hole. Paddled in only for Ben to be having his longest ever session. The lifeguard said you better get to hospital!
When I got there I had to lie face down with the paper sheet thing over my batty, whilst four student nurses learnt how stitch a bumhole back together, using mine for practice! They put 14 stitches in my batty, and each stitch cost me $500!
I couldn’t actually walk for two days bro and was super lucky as it was only 1 inch away from my spine!
Batty! What a good word, I didn’t know people still used it.
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