Photos by Damea Dorsey

“I don’t recall when I first heard of the Cave or who rode it, but I do know that around about five years ago or so it was pretty popular to surf Cave, everyone was at it. There were always crew out there and it was often pretty crowded, mainly with bodyboards, every swell. Then I guess people were getting hurt badly and often, and it kinda suddenly went out of fashion. Since then nobody has really been surfing it much at all regularly, except maybe Tiago along with Eric, and only maybe a few times each winter, tops.

The thing is with that spot, it’s so visible, you can always see it, and it hurts to
see it. When you’re surfing Coxos you can see sick ones down there and can’t help but thinking, ‘I should be surfing Cave.’ You can see it while you’re getting changed at Coxos, you kinda have to look away and ignore it, or at least that’s the way it’s been for me.

Anyway, living where I live, about half an hour away from there, on the days it’s on it’s hard to accept the fact that there’s a much better wave breaking. So every once in a while, you just gotta go.” – Nic