Slab Hunting with Nic Von Rupp & Albee Layer in Portugal

Emotional baggage from the Portuguese Hurt Locker.

Picking Your Waves

“Well me and Matt (Meola) kinda just did the trip last minute. I’ve had an idea to make a short movie this year so we just started by doing this trip because it just sounded fun pretty much, I also knew Nic von Rupp from a while back and he had invited me before. The waves were really fun the whole time we were there and then there was just swell after swell during the last week or so. I actually totally prefer colder and less tropical places to travel to. I don’t really like Indo or places like that it’s all a bit too crowded and over played I feel.” – Albee Layer

“It’s a much-feared wave, and rightly so, one of the most insane waves ever. You don’t wanna be over-confident or over zealous out there, you pick and choose your waves with care. It’s one of the craziest waves I’ve ever seen, all the way from the outside through to the inside, it’s one of the best barrels for me. The trouble with it is the reef is so gnarly. Some waves, the lip literally lands on the reef dry without making a splash. So if you fall on waves like that, you’re in all sorts. John John got hurt out there last year, it’s pretty crazy. I’ve often thought about going down at super low tide with a good hammer and rock chisel and just make it a bit more safe by taking some of those sticking up rocks off. It’s just those few sticking up ones that really kind of ruin it by making it so dangerous. I guess the thing is to choose the ones that shoot into the channel, rather than going into the reef. The trick is all about holding your line, even though the rocks stick out, after the shelf it goes into deep water, so if you hold on, you’re sweet.” – Nic


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