His first ever wave in Europe during a session out at Prowlers, Ireland. Photo: Aaron Pierce
Jeremy Johnson, a name you won’t necessarily be familiar with and yet one of South Africa’s hardest charging goofyfoots whose cut his teeth on Cape Town’s world renowned big surf. Places like Outer Kom, Sunset or Dungeons… lineups as challenging as any big wave spot on the planet. When he’s not surfing he’s towing in Grant ‘Twiggy’ Baker, current big wave world champ, or working as water patrol for the world’s best at J-Bay. But what’s most on his mind right now is a spot in the Big Wave World Tour event at Dungeons this year, something he’s put years of training towards for that one opportunity to prove himself.
Here the South African runs through his 5 most dangerous waves on the planet for us.
One of the biggest playing fields out there, in every way including marine life. Photo: Alan Van Gysen
“Without a shadow of a doubt, Dungeons, the lineup spans the equivalent of a rugby pitch, it’s a really big playing field out there, with seal colonies not far away. There’s nearly always big sharks roaming the area and it’s kind of easy to get caught inside. The line-up is really hard to read and rarely ever clean or glassy. You’ll often find yourself negotiating steps down the face of the wave and a lot of waves will just close out without any real warning. It’s Cape Town’s most famous wave, if you can feel confident in the water here then I’d say there’s few other line-ups in the world you couldn’t surf. I spend my whole year preparing for my sessions out at Dungeons, doing stuff most other big wave surfers do but also free diving and fishing… so as to combine preparation and fun.”