Yep, it’s crankos in SW France at the mo. On sunday, while Bobby and Mick were surfing 2ft fat Mundaka, apparently the surf was unbelievable here in Seignosse. I heard Joel Parkinson say the session he had then was, “the best waves I’ve ever had in France.” The word was Parko was getting 3 crazy tubes per wave on a particularly good bank north of Hossegor.
Yesterday was none too shoddy neither. I surfed La Graviere first of all, there was Curren, Jeremy, Sancho, CJ and some other seppo pros amongst it, jostling for tubes. I thought I’d broken my neck several times. Appas paddled out into the closeout lefts and displocated his shoulder getting bounced. Ouch! Tungsten was on the beach shooting. He said he was off to New York in the afternoon to shoot Giselle…. yeah Tungsten!
Then later on I went up to the Seignosse Superbank. Curren was out again, also Slater, everyone getting mad shack time. It was a perfect size for up there, maybe 5ft, occasional bigger ones but really thick right tubes.
After not surfing for a few days being down at surfless Mundaka and then having 4 sesh’s in a day, I’m broken. My back and shoulder muscles are so sore I’m struggling to lift up my coffee cup, and am forced to sip it from the table top like an invalid. If any of the fit birds that were hanging around the beach yesterday… (or even any of the mingers) wanna come round and gimme a rub, well go for it.