I got a call early yesterday am from Archi, reckoning the surf was really clean and good (it’s been onshore and too big in Seignosse for several days). With a fair degree of reluctance I hauled myself out of my scratcher, had a BC and pulled on the wet wettie. Yuck. Feels really bad against your warm, still asleep corpse doesn’t it?
I tried to jog across the road but my feet hurt on the little sharp gravelly bits, so I walked. When I got there it looked really shite. Super high tide, not really even breaking. best yet was that Archi wasn’t even there, the twat.
I paddled out and saw a few waves up the beach, a few down but none anywhere near where I was. I spent the next 2 hours trying to get a wave in. Even though i had my wave deflector shields turned up to max, some dude with one solitary big, thick, long dread somehow floated right up next to me and kept getting really fun ones. I don’t why the dread was significant but watching it flap and fly behind him as he zipped along the lefts somehow just pissed me off even more.
Anyway, eventually I got a bit of whitewater and proned in to put myself out of my misery. One minor concellation was, upon getting to the beach and seeing Arch was that he snapped his brand new board. Perhaps there is a god after all.
The other concellation of course, is that I’m going to Tahiti on Friday. Chin up.