Tom Carrol is a 53 year-old recovering meth addict. He won the second of his two world titles in 1984, and the third of his three Pipe Masters in 1991. His 9.6 in the Heritage Series heat was one of the highlights of the whole year.

He took off late on one of the biggest waves of the day, dropping to the bottom and straightening ever so slightly, the better to drive his 7’6 back up into a gaping Pipe cavern. The speed as he powered through the bottom-turn – legs coiled, both hands skimming the water – was immense; you could see the board chatter slightly as rail and fin bit into the surface with all their might. It was a wonder he managed to hang on.