How she rolls
I have a Tesla model S. Actually, it’s my dad’s car, but I take it whenever I can, ha! It’s a big initial investment, but it’s worth it — cause driving without polluting a drop is the best thing ever, and you save all the money you would have to spend on fuel. I’ve also gotten a bit obsessed with driving it pretty fast, hehe! (Don’t worry Mom, always carefully.)
It’s comp-licated
To be honest I’ve never really trained for contests, not in terms of tactics. When I go into the water I just place myself wherever I feel most comfortable and wait for the wave to come, without any pressure. Which is completely the opposite of what you have to do in your heat, unless you want to lose! I guess that’s why my brain’s not ready for that sort pressure in such a short window of time.
At one point having such pressure on me in every contest was slowly killing me, and I almost forgot what surfing should feel like. But now I’ve learned to appreciate everything that the contests entail, and I can say I’m enjoying them more than I’ve ever done. The nerves are something I don’t think I’ll ever be able to avoid, but I don’t get as breathless as I used to. I still get chicken skin before a heat.
She has a dog called Sexy
A friend of mine and I were trying to find a cute name for her. We were just throwing names around — Godzilla was one of the other options — when suddenly one of us said Sexy. At first we laughed, but then we realised it was the perfect name.
Surf photos: Txagattara (top); Zixabi (below); Antonio Toca (bottom).
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