I happened to meet Justis St John, who made the video you’re about to see, not too long ago in the Mentawais, where he spends most of the year working at one of the resorts. Justis St John — what a name! I wasn’t staying at his camp but at a much cheaper alternative nearby, which didn’t stop him from being one of the most amiable people I’ve ever met. The kind of person who would paddle past you in the line-up but stop first to assure you that the next wave was yours, all yours, he just preferred sitting further up the peak — knowing all the waves inside out as he did. Invariably he was true to his word, which often meant leaving the wave of day for an inferior surfer whose chances of even making the drop he knew weren’t great. It was a breath of gentle, refreshing air in the sticky heat of a place where many surfers — and often the jaded resort owners and guides most of all — consider anyone not staying at their camp or on their boats as practically enemy threats.
And this, it turns out, is what Justis does when he’s not in the Ments. Jamie O’Brien, John John Florence, Mark Healey, Chris Ward, Michael Ho, Conner Coffin, Luke Davis, Nate Behl, Josh Kerr, Clay Crandal, Cam Faris, Timmy Reyes, Diego Santos, Chris Kelly, Alex Gray, Stephan Figueiredo, Mikey Bruneau and Jason Frederico all feature.