From the first photo it looks like he listened.
I’ve been watching loads of footage of Mully, from our sessions and the other guys and have been studying it a fair bit, so I had already made up my mind about the line I wanted to take. It was a gigantic barrel and I’m sort of in the jaws of it. In hindsight, if I could turn back the hands of time and if I had a few warm up waves then maybe I could have got deeper, but it was sucking that hard I had to keep the line I had. I ended riding over the lumps on the three different ledgy parts and came out and the boys were screaming. They were calling wave of the winter and only then did I realise it was pretty special.
Did you get any more?
5 minutes later this big dark horrible cloud come and it started pissing it down and then wind started howling onshore and that was that really. It was all over. My mate Finn Mullen who took the photo was on the hill and said no other wave broke for an hour or two after that.
And what now?
Well get my frigging jet ski fixed is the first thing. I’ll be staying here for the next few months hoping to get a few more. Maddog Mcgrath and his family have taken me in and looked after me, so I’d just like to thank them, without their help I wouldn’t be getting barreled.
Here’s clip from Sancho and Billabong of the day
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