Everybody gets scared. Whether you’re Makua Rothman about to drop in at 20ft Waimea, an eight year-old grom getting pushed into your first green wave or a fully-grown man trembling at the sight of an approaching shoulder-high set, everybody somewhere along the line reaches that point where they think: ‘Holy shit, I think I’m gonna die.’ The question is, what are you gonna do about it, punk? Turn and go, for the ride and/or beating of your life – or turn and run, back to the safety and/or shame of your living room? That’s what really matters.
I for one cannot wait to watch John John and co. surfing Waimea in the Eddie – all from the comfort of the new sofa I got for Christmas, of course. Let’s hope it runs.