“It’s a pretty sick place down there, really beautiful. If you leave here (SW France) after breakfast you’re down there around lunchtime, it’s kinda close but seems so different. Not only in terms of the scenery, with the mountains so close to the coast, but in terms of the vibes too. There’s hardly anyone around and not many surfers at all, no real surf scene. It’s like country vibes, we surfed alone the whole time, the ocean is really strong and it just feels like you’re back to nature down there. We didn’t go out, we drank some cider in restaurants in the little villages, and went to bed early, super mellow.”
I found my way eventually, through reading books about Buddhism, like ‘Art of Meditation’ by Matthieu Ricard.
Sequence: Alex Laurel
“Last year for me, well fuck, it started pretty badly. I had many things going on personally that I had to deal with, it was all pretty tough, kind of a transition for me. I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do exactly, I had to train my mind back a lot, get focused and be sure I wanted to be doing what I’m doing. I found my way eventually, through reading books about Buddhism, like ‘Art of Meditation’ by Matthieu Ricard. Looking forward, I think I’ve found a new balance that I never had before, getting better and better every comp, improving my surfing and competing, and growing up a bit. I’m not converting to Buddhism just yet, but I’m thinking about it… Well kinda Bob Marley and Buddhism. I guess I’ve stepped up since last year, maybe not in surfing, but all around as a person. I’m still having fun, but with a better balance. I used to go out and party and feel bad afterwards, kinda low. Now I feel like I know what to do and what not to do a bit more…”