9. Nias: Less In Vogue But Still Sexy
9. Nias: Less In Vogue But Still Sexy
Description:
One described as the best seven seconds in surfing, Nias was probably the only wave that improved following the Nias earthquake in 2009. The previous deep water barrel that needed a six foot swell to break, turned into a more slabby right that started tubing at four.
History:
Australian adventurer Peter Troy is credited surfing Nias first in the mid ‘70s, and by the early ‘80s it was one of the classic surfing pilgrimages. That hasn’t changed.
Death Factor:
The new shallow ledge has upped the anti, with a solid swell now needing big balls and real technique. The dry hair paddle out and big channel however means safety is always available.
Standout performers:
Thornton Fallander, an Aussie surfer/shaper made a name for himself here in the movie Storm Riders, while post-Tsunami Jamie O’Brien’s efforts in 10 foot death kegs in his movie ‘Who Is JOB?’ reignited a whole new interest.
Logistics:
Local families and their losmens have lined the point since the early 80s, offering shelter, beer, fruit and rice to the traveling hordes.
Season/Swell:
At the risk of repeating ourselves, the Indo winter is the time for swells and trade winds. Lagundri needs a little more swell than other breaks and most veterans will tell stories of two week flat spells that can send you mad.
Expense:
Nias is still a long, long way from anywhere and takes loads of planes, boats and buses to get there. It’s a place for people with more time than money. This joint needs patience, not wads of cash.
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