We’ve spent the last two days surfing the sick right on the east side of Bali. Black sand beach with a pretty flat reef that works on a high tide, the wave breaks really close to shore with good baza sections.
Rasta has been surfing a mega sharp railed twin fin stinger tail thingy with a fair degree of aplomb, and took out the heat both days in my opinion with deep pits and some sweet carvature. Rizal was there yesterday too, along with Machado who both ripped it up. The Balinese locals were blazing as well, particularly Betet, throwing down some mental air reverses, really acrobatic stuff. I was videoing it in full trademark shakeycam, stay tuned for that. SE’s Alex Laurel showed up yesterday to shoot the boys full of holes.
Seeing as I’m going home in a few days I thought I’d surf without a t-shirt today. Ooops. I’m now sporting a red catsuit, which is a really good look.
It’s friday nite, so as soon as the tempeh/tofu mix has been digested and the 2 litres of bodyshop aloe vera aftersun has soaked in, we’re going out. Let’s just hope the only bombs in Kuta tonight are wearing skirts.