1. Photos by Ryan Foley
Red one on the left is an owl Chapman 9’0” triple stringer, hand shape, glass-on fins
with a resin tint. No dims. on it, but the volume feels perfect. I ride that board at Waimea Bay in the winter time and it dubs as my longboard during the summer.
2. The smaller orange board to the right of the 9’0” is a 5’9” 3-fin, e-wing, Malcom Campbell Bonzer, equipped with the Bonzer light vehicle logo and Bonzer writing on the inside of the side fins, shaped in California and glassed in Hawaii. There are 3 Bonzers in this photo but my favorite two were stationed in Bali at this time. I like to ride them on glassy long frontside walls. They have tons of drive and have the smoothest rail to rail transitions. I usually ride mine with a 6.5” center fin.
3. From the nose of the 9’0” and two over we have a 5’3” Greg Griffen 5 fin. I’m a goofy footer and I save this board for right hand points. It has a hard rail edge all the way to the nose. That, combined with the 5 fins, means you can really lean back and push off your back foot. The harder you push the faster this little board goes, you can comfortably crank turns at top speeds.
4. Directly above the 5-fin is a 5’7” quad flex tail by Luke Studer.
5. Two over from that with the black lines on the bottom, that’s the magic one. 5’7” quad flex tail by Luke Studer made in Bali. My older brother Mikala and Luke live in Bali and are constantly experimenting on boards, so I’m lucky I can reap the benefits every summer. This was the first quad that I ever had that could do everything and more than a thruster could. It’s one of those rare boards that works from waist high to 8ft Bali barrels. The flex tail gives it extra spring out of turns as well as smooths everything out.
6. There are 3 white boards in the middle, Pat Rawson 6’4”, 6’6”, 6’8”. Awesome boards, all ride very similar to each other. Super smooth and easy to ride. You get them on rail and the board’s bottom curve shapes your turn and it’s a really nice shape or at least it feels that way. I ride those on the North Shore between 6-8 ft Hawaiian depending on the spot and strength of swell.
7. Blue twin fin with red fins 5’4” shaped and glassed by Danny Nicohles. 0.5 lbs density eps foam, epoxy resin with a white pin line. Danny has been around a long time, shaped for Lightning Bolt and others. One of my best moments surfing in my life was on a waist high wave at Ala Moana. This board is challenging to ride. I think mainly because the fins are small and thin so they don’t have much hold. But the board does have a fair amount of Vee in the bottom half. Staying super low I was able to use the Vee and get a nice rail to rail, bottom to high line going. I hit the lip four times in a row as high as I could and the board is so light and with minimal fin drag it felt like I was hovering along. I’ve never felt that feeling before.
8. To the right, the white twin fin is a 5’7” EPS Kyle Bernhartd performance twin fin glassed with Resin x. This is an awesome twin fin, sooo fun in small waves. You can surf a 1ft wave on this board the same way you would surf a head high wave on a thruster. This board allows you to rip when the waves are not
rippable. Everyone who I let try this board ordered one the same day. Part of it is the fins. The bummer is Future stopped making this fin template 4 or 5 years ago. Not sure if it was ever for sale. I’ll ask them to make some for everyone’s sake.
9. The back right row pointing more horizontal are 6’9”-8’6” for Sunset and Pipeline. Some very special boards from some great shapers: Tom Parrish, Chuck Andrus, Wade Tokoro, Glenn Minami, Jason Kashiwai, Jeff Johnson, except the little green two plus one right behind me.
10. is one my brother Mikala and Travis Potter shaped and I glassed. It has a hemp cloth deck, that has a nice yellow weave. It’s a 5’8” for little tubes.