Yesterday was a windy day in Country. There were a couple of waves OTF at a spot called ‘Shitties’ but pretty eye-stingy going left into a ferocious trade.

I went to the east side to bodywhomp a beachie they call Pounders. Pretty sick little spot that had Hossegor-style shorey pummeling a coarse sand berm next to a lava cliff. I got a ride there with man like Ryan Foley in his beat up blue pick up. He’s a photog based here on the North Shore, and he’s not related to Axel. Go check um: www.ryantfoley.com

We had fun in the shorey, but it wasn’t quite Clark Little proportions. Check that madman getting proper blasts:

In fruit news, on the way home we stopped to see the nice aunties selling ice coconut and locals fruits in Kahuku. Ice coconut really hits the spot after an hour spent sandblasting water and yellow grit into your orifices. Papayas were way cheaper than Foodland and organic. Banana bread was moist. They say the mango was local but a source told me there hasn’t been a ripe mango on the N Shore since September. So somebody is telling porkies. I bought one anyway… viva Mexico.

In the evensong I got a ride to Pearl City with ASP CEO B.J. Carr, Juju live and ASP security boss Woody. We went to watch the UH Warriors smash Las Vegas 59-21 in the Halawa Aloha Stadium. The game mostly passing and very little rushing and really open. Each time UH scored a huge Hawaiian man led a push up line in the end zone, doing as many push ups as the score. The highlight of the entire evening was big BJ, miffed at a polaroid photo I took of him with a massive double chin, running down the steps, getting past the cops and getting on the field to join in! He got on his face and did some push ups with the UH students live in front of 30,000 people. Impressive as it was, the guy next to him was like the USA push up champion and was doing 4 to Brodie’s one. Still it was a valiant effort, and his double chin looked at least a mm reduced when he got back, to high-5’s from strangers and a hero.

In surf news, there is a North by North by North North with just a minute pube of a hint of West swell forecast for the start of the Pipemasters waiting period on wednesday, which could see some Backdoor action. It’s been ages since I’ve seen some Backdoor action, I do get lonely out here…

Official Triple Crown Surfline Forecast:

BRIEF OVERVIEW: The first few days of the contest waiting period could potentially see a medium size north-northwest to north swell, with overhead+ waves, if a storm behaves as forecast. Wind, at the moment, looks to be variable southerly or possibly variable kona flow as the swell arrives and peaks. The below forecast is long range and will likely be adjusted as we see storms develop. It represents our best look at this point and will be refined as we move forward.
WEDNESDAY 8th

SWELL/SURF: Good potential for medium size NNW to N swell (340-010) with overhead/overhead+ waves, likely showing best at Backdoor.
WIND/WEATHER: variable southerly wind, with possible kona flow.
THURSDAY 9th

SWELL/SURF: NNW to N swell (350-010) potentially continues with more overhead/overhead+ waves, likely showing best at Backdoor.
WIND/WEATHER: Variable southerly wind, with possible kona flow
FRIDAY 10th

SWELL/SURF: NNW/N swell easing, although still potential for overhead waves.
WIND/WEATHER: Variable southerly and/or kona flow.
SATURDAY 11th

SWELL/SURF: Smaller leftovers from the NNW/N in the head high+++ range.
WIND/WEATHER: Variable southerly and/or kona flow
SUNDAY 12th

SWELL/SURF: Small leftovers from the N/NNW in the head high range.
WIND/WEATHER: Variable southerly and/or kona flow