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Into The Mind Of Big-Wave Nutcase/Inspiration Greg Long

“I’ve always felt that the fundamental purpose in life is to seek and explore our greatest potential as human beings, to continually challenge ourselves and grow, physically, mentally and spiritually,” says Greg Long in this short, captivating film by Patrick Trefz.

“The fear is present in every single session; it’s actually one of the underlying motivators of why I ride big waves. Learning to control your mind, to not just understand but actually embrace those emotions that fear can provoke — that’s one of the most stimulating challenges in the world.”

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