Meet Matt Bromley

“There were these 10 foot barrels that were just detonating on dry sand. I don’t think anyone had ever surfed the wave that big… It’s such a hostile environment, with the seal colonies, the hyenas on the beach feeding on washed up carcasses… Two duckdives and I was out the back but you couldn’t see further than 30 metres away because the fog was so thick. All the waves seemed to be closing out… I ended up eating shit on about three quarters of them, but the ones I made were hands down some of the best I’ve ever surfed…”

At J-Bay as a spectator for the world tour event, Matt has been anxiously watching the charts for any signs of a swell that might see the big wave event at Dungeons run. He’s on the local wildcard list and itching to test his new rhinochaser. But presently out with an ankle injury, he’s praying they wait the two further weeks he needs before he’s allowed back in the water.

Sunset again. Photo Alan Van Gysen


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