Julian does do airs, coz he wants to, and coz he can. You on the other hand, should absolutely not. Not! Peniche. Photo: Ryan Miller
“I would say, for the basis, kids, don’t worry about doing airs, don’t do airs. I mean kids would hate to hear that, but surfing is just something that builds over time. Learning how to read a wave and ride a wave and understanding flow, timing, conditions, what boards and fins are right. Those are the things to concentrate on, there’s a lot to figure out.
How to position yourself on waves, how to cutback and link a wave together, it’s not about racing to the end and going for the sickest air, it’s not about that. You gotta go and surf a wave like J-Bay, and go and surf waves like Tahiti where airs aren’t what it’s about. Airs aren’t the essence of surfing, and you need to have the fundamentals. Look at the top guys in the world, and they can link a wave together like nobody else, as well as add the flair. But it all come from the basis of knowing how to read a wave and link the ride together.”
To read the full interview with Julian Wilson, and indeed for other informative, exciting, hilarious reckoning, be very sure to go out and buy a copy of SE95 Falling Up this week.