Big wave charger Greg Long had a four-wave hold down at Cortes Bank back in 2012.
Yeah, that’s not a typo. Four-wave hold down.
In the process, he died. He was given CPR and brought back, and surfed a big wave event just three weeks later. In this clip with Vice, Long admits how he really wasn’t ready to get back on horse so soon, and gives a bit insight into the psyche of a professional big wave surfer.
At Jaws, just three weeks after the non-fatal drowning…