Teahupoo & Matahi Drollet: A Prodigious Combination
"Just paddle, take off, barrel, come out" - a simple but unarguable philosophy
"Just paddle, take off, barrel, come out." It's a simple but unarguable philosophy -- at least it is when you're young, handsome, freakishly talented and live on a tropical island in French Polynesia. It has payed dividends for Matahi Drollet, who at just 17 years of age surfs Teahupoo perhaps as well as anyone alive. Marvel at the tippy-toe drop at 2:07, at the double barrel at 2:38, at the succession of tow-in behemoths at the clip's end, at the whole damn shebang.