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this just in…
Where are you Nicolau? How is Praia Grande today?
Its pumping for once in a life time.
– Did you see the new magazine? What did u think of your interview? Well written, wasn’t it?
It was the worse u ve ever did..I didnt really get the feel of what it is to hang out with the king of praia grande
– How’s your ripping been lately? On a scale of F to A+
Its getting better F+
– Have you been training much?
Ive been in Scotland and france for the wqs, so for the next 2 3 days im just going to be lazy and chill.
– How much money have you spent on sushi so far this month?
Non..i was in france for a week and only ate pizza at the 4 pizza places there is in bretagne!
its time to eat some fresh fish,vegetables and fruits.
– Were you jealous when you saw Adrien Toyon’s Women of Thurso post? Thinking… ‘I’m funnier than him…’
yeah, it was kinda funny..the pictures seemed harmless towards the scottish woman and they were having the time of their life..so all good.
(If you want to read more about this exciting young German, be sure to pick up a copy of SE81, and check his profile Bridging The Gap, which I wrote, so you know it’s good.)
The next day we rise early, slightly repentant from the non-surf day and hit the waves at breakfast time, getting the lower, better tide. The spot is another right point and the waves look the best yet. A guy is threading a tight barrel backside and tags a few speedy backside hits as sunshine shimmers off the tapering face. As we change in the car park, a short, older guy who Nicolau knows tells us to fuck off and surf somewhere else. Our aggressor is short with sideburns, a little bit muscley but not really. He is quite cross, but we paddle out to the right anyway. It’s real fun, but three wave sets and the same three guys dominating. Homeboy has calmed right down now, I was just trying to intimidate you, he tells Nicolau. Back in the car park we are all bros again, Captain Gnar Gnar tells us how to get out of the car park’s automatic barrier without paying. We have sold our dignity for about two euros.
“Shit, I haven’t done a turn since you’ve been here… I better do a turn before you go,” laments Nicolau von Rupp, as we contemplate our second sesh of the day, this time at the beachie. We suit up and so do a few others. There are a couple of waves, kind of. He does perform a few good turns; on one wave a cheeky three! We lunch at a shopping mall, from where we can hear the nearby Estoril racetrack, the loud whine of powerful engines doing laps. “I hate Formula 1 and all that stuff,” Nicolau confesses, “It’s pointless, isn’t it?”