From Ours and Shipsterns to W.A.’s The Right and Jaws, Aussie big wave loon Mark Mathews is well known for charging some of the biggest and more particularly gnarliest waves around the world, but apparently it wasn’t always this way. In this new short, the Maroubra-raised down-to-earth charger talks about how scared he was of surfing bigger waves as a kid and how exactly came to overcome that fear, to a point beyond all imagination. Mathews also offers a refreshing look at some of the more real and practical motivations behind his big wave game, like wanting to buy his mum her own house, for example.