I’ve found myself in Australia
So here I am down under getting non-stop abuse for being a pomme, to cuddly and a soft lad.
I landed in Sydney 5 days ago and was straight into a pumping south swell which apparently is the first one they’ve had in months. I’m staying at Glenn “Micro" Hall's place in Umina so he picked me up from the airport and for a change luck was on my side as I now had all the local knowledge I needed and scored the best waves I’ve had in ages.
My first 24 hours in Oz went just like this.
8am: Leave Sydney airport for the central coast
10.30 am: Surf North Avoca 3-4 foot off shore super fun the odd barrel, good standard in the water with the likes of Adrian Buchan, Drew Courtney and Glenn all ripping.
1 pm: First ever aussie pie but ironicly from an Asian place.
3pm: Launch jet ski buzzed straight out to box head and got barreled for 4 hours in the sickest waves ever.
9pm: getting id’d for a steak in a pub and being made to feel like a toddler.
10.30 pm: Bed!
5am: Wake up
5.30: Launch the ski and get barreld for another few hours.
So it’s been pretty good so far. The swell has died now but still some fun waves to be had.
Time for a bit of training in the Aussie heat and hopefully we'll be getting some more good waves.
More to come from down under…