ACE IN TAHITI
Hope all is well on the colorful continent. Im hearing that its warming up and there's been a few fun little sessions going down around Les Landes. Its exciting times in the South Pacific this time of the year. The east coast of Oz has just had its first taste of back to back groundswells groomed by the autumn offshores and the thousands of tropical Islands to the north are heating up with activity too. I've had more than my fair share of good waves over the last month. From the Wild West Coast of Oz to Fiji, Tahiti and just plain old stumbling out my front door into perfect barrels its been a ok run I guess...hehehe!
First of I met up with the Hurley crew in Margaret River for two weeks to film for Hank Gaskell, Brett Simpson and my upcoming video project. For me going over to West oz is a breath of fresh air. It feels like the real Australia. Your out in the middle of nowhere exposed to the elements searching for your waves. We would surf and fish all day then kick back at the pub in the evening with a few beers a steak and some stories around the pool table. It was goodtimes! Oh and there was also a contest on there too which scored really solid waves... a 5th there rounded out a great two weeks.
After a quick change of quiver and clothes at home I was off to Tavarua, Fiji for a week of freesurfing. It was my first time there and I felt like a grommet again. Our forecast for the week looked really good and the night before arrival I was so excited I couldn't get to sleep. It was due to a constant diet of right hand points; Snapper, Bells, my home break Avoca point and the dropping temps in Oz. So you could say I was a little keen to hit some warm water lefts... And didnt the swell come to the party! Nothing under four feet all week. We started with Cloudbreak, ended with Restaurants and surfed the fickle right in between. Hanging with Dean Morrison and Cory Lopez, two of the most surf stoked "grommets" alive, I barely made it out of my boardies for seven days and took home a bottom lip that looked more like a replica of the battered pluto pup ( a deep fried Australian delicacy). But there was no way I was going to sit and watch perfect restaurants in the shade, Id rather have my nails pulled out. I also met a bunch of great people from Cali who were kind enough to have us on their week. They parted like it was spring break every night even though they were all pushing 40. I was impressed.
A few all time sessions at home last week with my mates and here we are in Tahiti waiting for the ocean to come alive for the Chopes event. The poisson cru is plentiful and the coconut milk flowing.... Feeling great and I wouldn't have it any other way!