Laugh
Laugh
“The best surfer is the one having the most fun (even if it’s a girl)…” OK that’s become an odious cliché, don’t repeat that. But it is worth reminding ourselves from time to time than in the endless quest for progression, not to get too… serious. If you want to be all serious, try triathlon.
Aside from the general warm fuzzy benefits of being a great time guy/gal, having fun actually relaxes you, loosens your body and thus steepens your progres- sion. Plus, you’ll stay in longer, and staying in longer means more means waves more chances to get better etc etc. But! There’s more to it than that. There’s like, science, and shit. Studies show that laughter im- proves motor skills (moving your hands, arms and legs in response to stimuli i.e. pitching lips), increases beta-endorphins by 27% and human growth hormone (HGH) by 87%. Human growth hormone is believed to increase sporting performance (which is why Lance Armstrong injected it). But you don’t need Lance’s evil syringe, you just need to chuckle more when someone wipes out!
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