Enjoy The Wipeouts
Enjoy The Wipeouts
1988 Pipe Master and former SW France resident Rob Page once heckled the editor of this magazine, who was somewhat fearful of a big winter’s day at La Nord, “If I take me leash off, paddle into a 10ft-er and backflip out of the lip, will you catch a couple medium sized ones…?” Although the bluff was never actually called on that occasion, the principle held that the worst kind of wipeout can be character-building, that it’s never as bad as you imagine, that it frees us up to tackle the juice with renewed vigour.
Surfing is not as dangerous a sport as it looks. Wipeouts look hideous, but within the realms of an everyday surfer’s idea of big, are unlikely to be life-threatening. If the surf is towards the upper size limit of your enjoyment threshold, getting an early wipeout under your belt and getting straight back in the saddle can be the best way to enjoy your surf.
“I try to relax as much as possible and stay calm,” reckons Alex Botelho (pictured). “To me, the way I make myself stay calm is to remember that there’s no other choice at that moment, so you might as well make the best of it. As long as you have a good breath of air before the impact, that thought keeps me pretty calm. After the wave has done its business with you and lets you go, I like to grab a hold of my leash to gain orientation and to help get back up a bit quicker. Then, paddle back out for another one (another wave, not wipeout haha). Wipeouts can be fun, it’s all part of the experience, right?”
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