Photo: Pete Frieden
“Finally I’ve got a shot in Surf Europe! Haha… Well summer has been really fun here in France, I love it. Living in front of the beach at Bourdaines is so good because you can surf five times a day and chill out between. Luckily, I was away in Australia during the big flat spell in July so I missed most of it, but apparently it was crazy and really hot, everyone was freaking out. But funnily enough, it seems like just as fast as it went flat, the surf came back and there were waves non-stop after for a few weeks straight, and the water was crazy warm, people were saying warmest ever.
But anyway yeah, that was a really fun trip to Sumatra. I went to Indo because there was a big swell coming, so I just went there by myself, grabbed a filmer and photographer and headed to Nias, coz Bali is way too crowded. I still love it, but I prefer going to Sumatra or Sumbawa or somewhere else in Indo with no circus. As for that right, it’s a crazy wave, really gnarly. It doesn’t get good too often I reckon, pretty fickle. It’s really hollow, kind of like Teahupoo but a right, and it’s got three different peaks. When the set comes you don’t know where it’s going to break so you have to be ready to move. You need a decent sized board to get into them, because it’s got so much power. In the end I got a couple of good ones and loved it.”