GREENBUSH
GREENBUSH
DAMO IS SCARY TO SURF WITH
This swell was way too WEST and most waves were shutting down across that evil slab of dry reef on the inside. DAMO was first into the lineup (as usual when it’s scary) and his first wave was a bomb. He weaved through until the thing clamped him and when he paddled back out it looked like he’d been in a knife fight and lost. Creed was in the boat with me and he looked concerned. I yelled to DAMO as he paddled by “Is it make-able out there?” I said….He cooly replied, “yup”. Creed still looked concerned. I yelled “You’re pretty cut up man…” hoping he would come in so we could assess the damage. With his eyes fixed on the lumps coming in out the back DAMO kept paddling right by the boat and said, “No I’m not” as blood poured off his back and into the giant shark tank he was swimming in.
This was his next wave…
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