REPETITION IS THE MOTHER OF ALL FLOPPIES
Rebrix, Supertubos from SE82 by Alex Laurel
A wise, old village sage once sat me down by the Chinese which was also a chip shop by the graveyard and told me that repetition is the mother of all floppies. I was young, but I was eager to learn. I promised to do my best.
But repetition is key to noble advancement in surfing, life, science and yoga, isn’t it? Your lungs don’t mind a routine, do they? The ticker, that red, bloody, meaty, life-giving muscle pump doesn’t mind several decades of regularity either.
Tides are pretty regular too. They also regularly ruin the surf, or make it good, or, are just there. There is so much talk about wind and swell and sand bars and direction that the tide oft gets forgotten about, and we thought we’d remind ourselves in a little yarn called Do We Really Need The Moon? p92
Upon reflection I have decided we do need it.
In this issue we took an irregular slab hunting mission to Galicia, with images of spots it’s probably fair to say you have never seen before. The boys got a bit mashed up on the rocks, but hey ho. It’s not tiddlywinks.
We used to have a non-complementary expression about ‘another island’ in the office, in reference to a contributor that regularly went on trips to the same place to shoot each year and always tried to tell us in the story that they got a flight to ‘another island’. Anyhows, two dudes who actually come from that island that wasn’t another island, Sergio V and Jony G, actually did do a trip to another island, Beyond Las Americas p86.
Jeremy Flores gave us his first feature interview for a while in this issue, answering some awkward questions with refreshing candour for a pro surfer. After PR nightmares with the J-Bay autograph vid and then the Burleigh fisticuffs, and a trillion hater comments online that ensued, we hope Jeremy has gone some way to setting the record straight and getting his side of the story across in Don’t Get Me Wrong p66.
Perhaps the old guy was right about routines back then, perhaps not. He also said something about smell. That dinner is better when someone else cooks it as you don’t spend ages smelling it, that it assaults and pleasures your tastebuds suddenly. I really don’t know. I know that one large cup of tea tastes better than the second small one. I know it’s harder to smell your own musk and detect that you need a shower than it is for someone else to. Regularity and routine are as much part of a surfing life as they are any other, and are at times both awesome, and boring. And that paddling out with a lob on is very, very tricky.