What is your greatest fear?
One of those sucky big barrels at Mundaka… when you paddle that one, skip the lip, and get in there. It´s like you want to get out of the barrel, but you want to stay in there so bad… it´s a contradiction…. that´s the greater fear.
What was your most embarrassing moment?
I remember one time like 10 years ago, I was flying to Indo on one of those long term flights. It was one of the turbulence areas and we had to stay so long with the seatbelt on. I was pissing my self so bad and after around one hour of agony they let us go and I ran to the toilet. I just made it to the toilet and start pissing…. I was so stoked, so relaxed. Probably one of the best moments in my life. I came out of the toilet and while I was walking through the corridor, I realized there was a woman looking at my pants so horrified. I look down to my pants and first thing I saw was my dick out of the zipper peeping like a bird. I couldn’t believe I had forgot to pull the bird in again. I had such a pleasure pissing in the toilet that I forgot about everything else in life. I pulled back in so fast and luckily I didn’t get reported by the woman and get put in jail as a exhibitionist. That was the worst for sure, you can’t do worse than that.
Property aside, what’s the most expensive thing you’ve ever bought?
I think my Canon 7D camera. It feels expensive because I still don’t know how to use it.
What makes you unhappy?
Waking up late, being alone and not knowing what to do.
What’s the worst thing anyone has ever said to you?
You still playing with your surfboard? Get a real job.
Who would play you in the film of your life?
It would be an epic long left hander, 20 seconds barrel, I see nature and friends, food and happiness.
What do you most dislike about your appearance?
I´m a shortleg, but what can you do?
To who would you most like to say sorry to and why?
I would like to say sorry to nature for what humans have been doing this last 50 years. But I believe we still have time to turn around and do something.
Which living person do you most despise and why?
Big names behind the political scene. We think they are smart, but they are the most ignorant people, destroying what nature has done in millions of years in a 50 year term.
Who are your heroes?
My dad, my man. People doing and building things that they believe and what they really like to do with respect to others.
What has been your biggest disappointment?
If you could go back in time where would you go?
I would go to Indo, to that epic session and stay there forever.
When was the last time you had sex? How’d it go?
Yesterday, I cooked a good romantic dinner for my girlfriend, and I got it back. Stoked.
Tell us a joke.
We are driving the earth in the right way.
Tell us a secret.
If you want to keep a secret don’t never ever say where the waves are, not even to your friends. I won’t be a secret any more, I tell you.
What song would you like played at your funeral?
Bob Marley´s “Afrikan Herbsmen”
Who is the worst person to surf a heat against?
Kelly Slater, but I would love to have a chance to surf against him in epic Mundaka.
Complete the sentence. If I ruled the world…
It´s a tough one, because so many people have kept the control of the power in their conscience. The history is full of wars, and madness, but you have to keep the hope. Destroy the army, I would invest in education, respect and nature. Get barreled every time, and look for the barrels everywhere, like I do now.