Do you study pre WW1 surfing much? Neither do we. But if you were to, you might find interest in one George Freeth, Hawaiian/Irish Waikiki beach boy who reportedly became the first person to surf on mainland uS in 1907 (before the Duke!). Now actually, that isn’t even true, two Hawaiian princes surfed Santa Cruz in 1880’s, but hey. Jack London wrote of him “A young god bronzed with sunburn” That’ll be the Irish part.
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