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THE 100 GREATEST SURFERS OF ALL TIME

One of the first guys out at The Bay that day in 57, La Jolla’s Pat Curren transplanted to the North Shore to make pioneering steps. The legend goes he dove for food in the ocean, poached fowl from North Shore smallholdings, swilled beer and tooted cigs and charged massive water with a quiet air of general disinterest, sometimes going days on end without speaking. Noted for his impressive work designing and shaping the first ‘proper’ big wave guns with rails and rockers suited to big walls of Hawaiian water… on a kitchen table, as well as going on to sire a boy called Thomas Roland.

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