Beware the sea-snake attached to your ankle, for it is a capricious beast. One moment it will leap to your defence, reuniting you with the buoyancy of your beloved surfboard, or fending off a curious great white; the next it will entwine itself around you like a boa constrictor and squeeze with the might of oceans.
Legendary Brazilian hellman Carlos Burle was stok-ed to make it out alive after a recent run-in with Jaws, but not so stok-ed with the fierce pain in his left leg inflicted by his mutinous leash. Probably pretty stok-ed with the bruise though! For those, like us, not privy to the mysteries of Portuguese, below is an English version of Carlos’s message, meticulously translated by Google. It reads like a glorious prose poem, does it not?
Fud … Now I’m back with the wave … Breathe, calm and keeps the body together to protect members! And … something pulled my leg and pulled me out of the shaft! Clear the board … The cordinha is super thick and is made not to break … But thank God she breaks the tension and I am free. A huge pain in the left groin! That’s the least of it … I’m alive and I have to return to the surface! I try to control my arms … It’s difficult because of the turmoil! But I have to drive the extra floats to reach the surface! I am very deep and taking punches all it’s side. Finally uniting the two hands can inflate the extra vest and get my saga into the air so much need! I was a long time down here and hopefully not get two waves underwater … I feel I am near the surface ,,, I prepare to breathe … In the middle of breath another wave catches me and it all starts again … were four waves until finally climb on the jet and return to my battery! Pictured marks my meeting with #jaws #Peahi #surf #surfing #bigwaves #bigwavesurfing #bigwavecommunity
Share