Rocky Puta he'au, Saturday 5th, 17h44

The swell increased dramatically on the North Shore today. The penultimate day of the Sunset waiting period, they now need to run the remaining 7 heats tomorrow (it's dropping), because they need to get the scaffold down before it gets washed away by the 'Eddie swell' that's in the post for mon/tues/wed. I sauntered down to Sunset this morn to see if the comp was on. It was mountainous whitewater all the way to the North Pole.


Stabmag's Chas Smith rocked up at Sunset doing his best to look edgy and intellectual au meme temps. He gave me a ride to the Bay in his convertible Chrystler thingy. I said I thought soft tops were only for chicks. He lit a ciggy and pouted in the rear view. The Bay looked shiny and fun. OK, that would depend on what you mean by fun. I would have honestly loved to paddle out there and take it on, but alas, I didn't have my beach towel, so unfortunately could not. Gutted.

These guys did though.


I'm not in love with Ace, well not much, it's just I see him everytime I leave the house. Soz. He was out there on one of Gabe Davies' boards. Write a movie about that, Lozza.