Rocky Puta he'au, Saturday 5th, 17h44

The swell increased dramatically on the North Shore today. The penultimate day of the Sunset waiting period, they now need to run the remaining 7 heats tomorrow (it's dropping), because they need to get the scaffold down before it gets washed away by the 'Eddie swell' that's in the post for mon/tues/wed. I sauntered down to Sunset this morn to see if the comp was on. It was mountainous whitewater all the way to the North Pole.

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Stabmag's Chas Smith rocked up at Sunset doing his best to look edgy and intellectual au meme temps. He gave me a ride to the Bay in his convertible Chrystler thingy. I said I thought soft tops were only for chicks. He lit a ciggy and pouted in the rear view. The Bay looked shiny and fun. OK, that would depend on what you mean by fun. I would have honestly loved to paddle out there and take it on, but alas, I didn't have my beach towel, so unfortunately could not. Gutted.

These guys did though.

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I'm not in love with Ace, well not much, it's just I see him everytime I leave the house. Soz. He was out there on one of Gabe Davies' boards. Write a movie about that, Lozza.

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