Rocky Puta he’au, Saturday 5th, 17h44

The swell increased dramatically on the North Shore today. The penultimate day of the Sunset waiting period, they now need to run the remaining 7 heats tomorrow (it’s dropping), because they need to get the scaffold down before it gets washed away by the ‘Eddie swell’ that’s in the post for mon/tues/wed. I sauntered down to Sunset this morn to see if the comp was on. It was mountainous whitewater all the way to the North Pole.

The bike path goes over a the little lagoon before Sunset. Today the berm was breached and Sunset was O.O.C. Waimea it is, then.

Stabmag’s Chas Smith rocked up at Sunset doing his best to look edgy and intellectual au meme temps. He gave me a ride to the Bay in his convertible Chrystler thingy. I said I thought soft tops were only for chicks. He lit a ciggy and pouted in the rear view. The Bay looked shiny and fun. OK, that would depend on what you mean by fun. I would have honestly loved to paddle out there and take it on, but alas, I didn’t have my beach towel, so unfortunately could not. Gutted.

These guys did though.

Some visiting pros hate Hawaii. They hate coming here, hate surfing here, spend all their time on facebook and training in front of the mirror. Aritz isn’t one of them. He loves it here, he’s always stoked. Today I believe he became the first Moskova male lingerie teamrider to shred Waimea, although I could be wrong.

Buttons Kaluhiokalani waxing up. You may or may not remember seeing him on Dog the Bounty Hunter as the mark. Anyways, Buttons is back on track. He asked for a sip of my water and I obliged. I’d like to think that extra bit of hydration helped him over the ledge. Buttons is a legend.

Maui’s Dusty Payne with Australia’s Heath Joske. DP has a qualification heat demain at Sunset, if he gets third or better in his QF, as I understand it, he’s in.

I’m not in love with Ace, well not much, it’s just I see him everytime I leave the house. Soz. He was out there on one of Gabe Davies’ boards. Write a movie about that, Lozza.

I am in love with Bots though. The other day he told me, “I was having a bat online and her **** fell out. I didn’t know it was a tranny, honest…” Here he is meeting the challenge of Waimea surfing with all due seriousness.

Many in the know think Shane Dorian is the best overall performer on the North Shore when it’s serious. Who would argue with that? Certainly not me.


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