HOW 2: Order Your Summer Stick
With Dazza McBroady from Euroglass
When some people think of summer surfboards, they automatically think about a fish or a mal, or some weird combination of the two. Whatever kind of board you decide to ride, here are some pointers from an unusual-looking man who’s flogged more summer boards to summer surfers than you could shake a gratos leash at.
– FISHY? The fish for example is fantastic, but it doesn’t suit everyone, it depends on your technique. Borrow a mate’s board or one from a test centre and see if you like it before you order, because they do suit certain surfers more than others.
– PERFORMANCE. Know what you want in your summer board. The board does not have to be surfed in small shitty gutless waves. If you already have a small wave rig then get yourself your favourite board but lighter. Lightness equals speed equals fun.
– SKILL.. Rob Machado surfs better than you so if you see him on a 5’2” ripping it doesn’t mean you are going to rip, too. Know your level and act accordingly, Have an honest appraisal of whether paddling power and speed are more important than shred-ability to you in your summer board.
– QUALITY. Buy cheap, buy twice someone once said. Why try and save that extra bit of cash if it means sitting out the back on a dog of a board wishing you hadn’t wasted all your money on shooters at your local pub talking it up about what you would do tomorrow if you weren’t going to be feeling like a dead cow. Good luck!
Make a Cold Water Surf Trip
With Archi ‘I just got back from Scotland’ Jaeckin
Sure, it’s mid-summer, but these days that means European surfers are just as likely to be headed to northerly swell-drenched outposts like Scotland, Norway or Iceland as staying at home dying slowly in desperate flatness.
– Look after your extremities. As seen during the O’Neill Highland Open, proper equipment is so vital that Australians, Hawaiians and other warm water surfers don’t seem to have a disadvantage anymore. Booties, gloves, hood and state of the art cold water suit will keep you surfing in total comfort, or in fact even warmer than usual.
– Know your enemy: hypothermia and its symptoms, like shivering, fast breathing and an irregular pulse. There are different levels of hypothermia that can lead to coma and death. The rule of thumb if you start to experience hypothermia is to go in and start to warm yourself gradually. Jumping under a hot shower isn’t the best option, the body doesn’t appreciate radical changes in temperature.
– Always carry two wetsuits, so you can have one always dry for your second sesh of the day. If you were going to Hawaii or Mexico you’d take an extra board or two, if you’re headed north, make that an extra wettie. If you really can’t afford it bring a hot thermos to pour into your wetsuit before putting it on again. The hot thermos will also come in handy when you return too, helps you to warm up your fingers to get that key in the hole.
– Be quick and clever. Unless you have a comfy van, you will have to either get changed in the car or outside. Stay out of the wind is an obvious one, also stand on your shoes/boardbag when putting your suit on, don’t stand bare foot on freezing cold tarmac before you go in, all the blood in the lower half of your body goes down the legs, thru your feet and back, so keep your feet warm. Having a thick bathrobe is a good idea, available in all good supermarkets or at the hotel you’re staying in.
Hot Abs & Buns for Summer!
WITH PATRICK BEVEN
PB doesn’t mind a work-out. Not only does it keep his rig finely tuned, it helps him rip the crap out of whatever the ocean offers.
– “Summer is about endurance, long days, longer sessions, so you got to work on your cardio. I normally go for a 40 min run on the beach; it makes your heart work harder than on hard soil. Just don’t do it too often as it can damage your knees, back and ankles.
– Summer surf is also about being explosive. It’s a mix between muscle work and good breathing. Pick a dune or a steep hill and run to the top as fast as you can, then come down controlling your breathing, repeat 6 times or more. After a few days check how much more powerful your turns are.
– For the more work out side of things I use balls: a big ball for the sheath, for the muscular reinforcement of the pelvic region (abdos, lumbar, oblique, bum, abductor and adductor) and help the torque of the body and inner power.
– I go biking everyday, again for the endurance but also to dry out the body by getting rid of the bad fat. 40 minutes is enough at a gentle pace, no need to race! Remember; drink plenty of water before and after exercising.”
Photos: Pete Frieden, Villalba, Barros