The Down The Line / Thousand Yard Stare
So much attention is given to nuances of form and technique in today’s frightening, fruity but still fun surf world.
We are delivered counsel, requested or not, on your positioning in the lineup, your positioning on the wave.
We are reminded of the importance of bodyshape, arms, legs, beard. We are bamboozled with nuances of hydrodynamic interaction of board and wave.
We are branded as cultural subsets within the broader surfing family according to our equipment, our line, and our hair.
Yet nobody seems to focus on the face. Not the wave face, but your actual face, the one on the front of your head.
Your grid, dial, mush, mug, kisser, Chevy Chase, boat race.
Here, Kolohe opts for the ‘down the line grimace’. The down the line grimace is generally aimed at a point 2.5 to 7 metres ahead. It might be to do with the kind of wave J-Bay is.
He's got it right.