Grom, Tokoro tail snap, Pipeline. Photo: Ryan Foley
The first time it might even feel kinda oddly cool. Like you entered some kind of club, that you have become one with the pros who seem to snap ’em like there’s no tomorrow. Then, maybe even the second time too, it semi feels legit. Or maybe it just sucks ass from the beginning.
Like, you saved up your pocket money for two years.
Or you wangled it for birthday and X-mas combined.
Or you put it on the never never, in effect haven’t even paid for it yet, and it’s in two.
Then of course, you’re left with the decision of whether or not to get it put back together. Do you sink another hundred back in, just so you can maybe sell it on to possibly clear half that in ‘profit’?
Or, perhaps worse still, you borrowed it. And have the financial set back, as well as the emotional trauma of informing the owner what has become of his favourite surfboard. That, perhaps, you didn’t even ask to borrow in the first place.
Or, perhaps, it’s nothing like as complicated as this. It’s just a case of your new, still-white fresh Tokoro, snapped in two pieces, like your heart. Your young conscience can’t fathom why the world has to be such a cruel, unforgiving place.
So you turn your back.