Ireland is largely a devout nation. Lowey’s leap of faith. Photo: Mickey Smith

1. I didn’t get sponsored until I was 24.
2. I was really insecure as a kid, so my point above about sponsorship makes sense.
3. I hated school, used to ditch class to go skateboarding or surf, got into trouble with kids, teachers, police, family. The best day of my life was when I left school.
4. Don’t have an iPhone, not on Facebook or Twitter and that, it sucks the energy right out of me. It spins me out how hard some people are hitting the net, promoting the shit out of themselves online, I’d prefer to be living it rather than online preaching your life.
5. On my first surf trip to Indo aged 16, I did a boat trip and we shipwrecked in the middle of the night slap bang into 4-6ft Deserts, people breaking ribs, cuts all over, we spent the night on the beach trying to keep an eye on our stuff, I was scared shitless.
6. I travel with a small bag full of trinkets that I’ve gathered from all over the world. I put them in a corner next to where I sleep, it gives me power, wherever I am I have those positive vibes with me.
7. Some people might get the impression that I just wake up and paddle into a 10ft bomb without a thought, but I put a lot in. I mean I’ve been told that I won’t surf again a number of times, that nearly breaks you.