On the practice wave next to the comp wave, you’d see the boys blowing up. Going super hard, taking risks and surfing close to 100%.
Then they’d scoot across to the comp wave, and do kinda conservative safety turns. It’s just what happens.
“Me and Evan were trading fours in our heat” laughed Jack Freestone. “Then as soon as it ended, we both caught waves and got tens. It’s so funny how you can’t help but hold back when you’re being judged.”
Occy vs the French, Andy vs Bruce, Renato vs SnakeDoom & more!
"I think surfing does a good job of trying to sweep all its dirt under the carpet..."
Please enter your email so we can keep you updated with news, features and the latest offers. If you are not interested you can unsubscribe at any time. We will never sell your data and you'll only get messages from us and our partners whose products and services we think you'll enjoy.
Read our full Privacy Policy as well as Terms & Conditions.
Cookies help us deliver our services. By using this website, you agree to our use of cookies. Learn More
Accept
Share