4.Tough Guys

Everyone’s obsessed with being hard these days, aren’t they? Whatever happened to surfers being wusses and other folk, like rugger buggers, steroided bodybuilder flexers, perhaps footie hooligans etc being fierce?

What’s with all the martial arts? ‘Martial’ means war!

What happened to peace, love and simply being far too high to choke hold a foe’s eyeballs out of their sockets? Or even just meek, submissive kooks… Where are they? Now everyone wants to be a ruffian.

I got into a minor disagreement with a teenage boy who kept paddling inside (using a technique as if he were doing those exercises with a broomstick to ward off lovehandles) and he told me he’s a fighter and would love to “kill” me. Kill?!?

I only asked you to not paddle inside on a surfing wave as it was rather a poor show, old chap. Not to be executed, at le Penon of all places!

5.Assholes

No, surfing, doesn’t reflect what society as a whole is doing. Society is getting better. People in general, are becoming more tolerant, more accepting, less hateful. Not surfing!

Nobody’s got any humility any more in the shred. Whatever happened to someone making a minor infringement, then holding up an apologetic hand, then doing nice, offender-victim chatting, ‘My fault, sorry’… ‘Oh no worries, dude, bro, mate, pal, bud, etc…’

Now every fucker has to bicker over every fucking thing, argue, confront, rage. It’s all brinkmanship, instant blow-ups.

Surfing is broken, chiefly because, sadly, everyone is an asshole. Everyone.

You are an asshole, and yes, I too, am a total asshole.