13/02/2014 | 1 comments
Last year I ended up spending a whole month down in Portugal, surfing between Ericeira, Nazare, Peniche and Lisbon. No wait… not surfing in Lisbon… just hangin out hahaha. Anyway, I think Portugal is basically one of the best places anywhere for surfing. You have so much variety and pretty much swell every single day, the place is so sick.
I got my own rhythm going which seems to make perfect sense for me; surf three days, party three days, sleep three days. What more do you need in life? You have to find your balance and for me, the three times three combo seems to have everything in order for a nice equilibrium. That’s what life is all about, right?
I got my own rhythm going which seems to make perfect sense for me; surf three days, party three days, sleep three days.
As far as the sessions up at Nazare when it was small, it’s pretty much like La Graviere, except maybe more powerful, with that rip that won’t let you back to shore without a board. On this day I went up there with Nic von Rupp and it was packed with boogieboarders, not that many surfers. Just Gony, Alex Gray, Mike Gleason and Ze Ferreira.
I was cruising with Brett (Simpson) and Yadin mostly, they’re super funny so we had really good times. The person who impressed me the most was Felipe Toledo. We had a run of three days in a row when it was maybe 3ft, super rippable for airs, and he was boosting crazy shit. Massive. When I saw him do one I was like ‘Don’t even try to land that, you’re gonna break both your legs’ and luckily for him, his board broke under him. That kid is so gnarly. After seeing Toldeo I decided to give up trying to do airs. Fuck that. I’ll just get barrelled.
After seeing Toldeo I decided to give up trying to do airs. Fuck that. I’ll just get barrelled.
I met some local crew down there and ended up hanging out with them, they showed me around, gave me a room to crash in Lisbon. The spot where everyone goes is Lux, the huge superclub, but I actually got thrown out of there, I’m not gonna say what for. I don’t think I can go back for maybe a year, I’m not sure. Nic’s buddy told me he got thrown out over a year ago and still can’t get back in haha. But whatever, it’s not the best place to go anyway.